I adjusted the linkage from the transmission and that really didn't help. The next thing I did was replace the belts. I figured since I've had the tractor for so long they could probably use replacing. Replacing the drive belt was not easy, but I did it. Unfortunately, that didn't fix the problem either. Drats! The tractor just had no power and could barely go up a hill anymore. Through the process of elimination and numerous web searches, I figured the problem had to be the transaxle. Some internet sites showed prices upwards of $400 for a new one. What?! Apparently I'm not the only person out there having this issue with the Peerless 205-024C Transaxle. There are a lot of posts from people with the same symptoms. A common conclusion is that the transaxle oil breaks down over time and must be replaced. Unfortunately I couldn't find many good articles on how to do this and everyone had their own unorthodox way to do it. Some guys were actually hoisting their tractor up from the front in order to drain the oil out of the transaxle. Really? I'm here to tell you that changing the oil is not hard to do and most importantly, it DID fix the problem. It only makes sense that the fluid in a hydraulic system eventually loses its viscosity and won't work anymore. This certainly happens a lot faster when it gets overheated, which occurs when the transaxle gets covered with dirt and grass.
Since there seems to be a lot of people looking for some information on how to change the oil in this transaxle, I decided to take some photos and see if I could help out. If you have a little bit of mechanical ability, you can do it.
If you want to check if you even have oil in the transaxle, there are two rubber plugs on the top. You can get to them from the battery compartment, but if your transaxle was caked in dirt and dried grass like mine they're hard to spot. The one under the fan (left side) is for the hydraulic fluid, and the other is for the gear oil. Here is a photo showing their locations (after it's cleaned off, of course):
To change the hydrostatic oil, you'll need to remove the transaxle. Take the back wheels off and block up the back of the tractor so you can get to it. There is a shiny, square metal plate that houses a rubber bellows (see the photo below). This plate has to be removed to drain out the oil, but it sits in a position that won't let you do that while the transaxle is attached. There are only a handful of bolts to take off and they're easy to get to. You have to unhook the brake linkage and take off the drive belt too, but it's no big deal. Just remember where they go back. Put a jack or something underneath the transaxle before unbolting it, or have someone help hold it - the transaxle is actually quite heavy. Safety first.
Here is a photo of that plate that needs to be removed. There are four bolts that require a special type of torx bit, but I was able to drill them out and use a regular torx bit on them. Vice grips work too. Have the transaxle sitting vertically like this or the oil will spill out when you remove the plate. Once you remove the plate, you'll find a rubber bellows assembly inside that just lifts right out. The oil is under that. Simply dump it out into a container by tilting the transaxle over. Try to get out as much as you can, but as long as you get most of it you should be ok.
As far as what kind of oil to put back into it, I've read a lot of posts and there are some similarities on what to use. Sure, you can spend $45 and get the bellows kit and oil directly from a Murray distributor, but more than likely there is nothing wrong with the rubber bellows. Some small engine dealers sell hydrostatic fluid, and I assume that will work. Me, I used synthetic motorcycle oil 20W-50. Several people said its viscosity works great for this transaxle. I bought 2 quarts and simply poured it in where that plate was until when I installed the bellows the oil was right at the top. One thing you'll want to do is get the air out, so rock the transaxle back and forth until you don't see any more air bubbles. The oil should be running out around the edges of the square metal plate when you put it back on. Tighten the screws, wipe it off, and that is it. Now reinstall the transaxle back onto your tractor.
Well, my Murray riding mower ran like it was brand new after I changed that oil. I've been using it for several months now and have had no more issues with power or sluggishness. In another 5 to 10 years if I have the same symptoms I know what to do.
This is how I did it. I'm not saying it's right or wrong - all I know is it WORKED. If anyone else has some insight, suggestions, additional information, or critique please share. I was able to do this task in about 2 hours, and the only cost was the price of the oil. I hope this helps you!
Update August 2014: I'm about done with a second mowing season since changing the oil and everything still works great. Plenty of power and no issues!
Update September 2015: Tractor is working just fine! Had to replace the choke cable and ignition switch, but the transaxle is working great. I've been cutting grass here in Maryland at least once a week since Spring, and I'm definitely getting my mileage out this Murray.
Update July 2016: I can't believe it's been 3 years since I wrote this post, but I'm still cutting grass with the same Murray riding mower, and no issues at all with that transaxle since changing the fluid. I'm still cutting grass every week from April until late Fall and my Murray is working just fine. Certainly getting my money's worth out of it.
Update May 2018: With all the rain, the grass is growing like crazy now that summer is on its way. I've mowed the lawn several times already and yes, I'm still using my trusty Murray. She's still going strong and not slowing down at all. The fluid change I did 5 years ago is paying off. My wife can't believe I'm still using this 20 year old mower...
